The metal of the moon – Silver

This month I focus my attention on the much loved precious white metal we know as silver.
I have always admired silver for its beauty and having started my career as a silversmith, I learnt to appreciate the skills and techniques required.

Silver is a malleable and ductile metal and has excellent working qualities, great reflecting power and an ideal material for a young aspiring jewellery student like myself to work with. I admit that my early attempts were at best mediocre but I still look at my first creation with pride!

My admiration of silver was not diminished and when early in my career I was offered a job with the Danish silver company Georg Jensen I did not hesitate.
After all, Jensen was acclaimed to be the greatest silversmith of his time and helped transform jewellery design in the early twentieth century. When interviewed he once said “that silver is the best material we have; it has this wonderful moonlight lustre, something of the light of a Danish summer night.”

I want to show you this silver curved link bracelet which was given to me by my mum a long time ago. It was designed by Steffen Andersen working for Georg Jensen in the 1960’s and is fabulous. I continue to feel in awe of this great design and was influenced by it whilst designing jewellery. Little did I know that a few years later I would then work for Jensen in London.

The influence of Jensen still resonates with some of the contemporary designers of today as we can see in this Mobius pendant with its beautiful curves. So very Jensen-esque.

I am also drawn to the work of other notable designers working in silver such as Charles Horner, Archibald Knox and Charles Robert Ashbee. Charles Horner, whose firm made jewellery including hatpins, brooches and thimbles in the Liberty Style including these lovely Edwardian silver sash buckle brooches dated 1911.

As well as working with silver, Horner was also known for working with enamel. A lovely example of his enamel work is this stylized white enamel pendant with hand painted flowers dated interestingly the same year as the buckles.

Around the same time period another lesser-known English designer James Fenton was also working with silver and enamel. This sweet brooch is dated 1908.

Moving onto today’s designers, many continue to draw inspiration from the past, notably using vibrant blue and green enamels with this Art Nouveau inspired pendant.

Meanwhile Scottish designer Chris Lewis takes inspiration from textures and forms from the beautiful Highlands but he has taken a Scandinavian influence with his ‘grape’ collection.

This minimalist T square silver ring design is quite striking with a Tiffany feel about it. There is a bangle too…

So the 20th Century saw rapid changes in silver design driven by societal shifts, world events and evolving fashion trends. Silver jewellery designers continue to love silver for its affordability, versatility and timeless beauty.